Vienna and environs

Vienna, September 13-17

Patti and RT joined us in Vienna. We, Ken, Bev, Ron and I, are currently on our way to Split, Croatia after 4 days in Vienna, aka Wien. Once again we are traveling by train, the rail system here in Europe is something to be envied – on time, clean, efficient and comfortable, and as I write this our train is swaying a bit! RT and Patti are flying, but our airline went out of business right before we left, so another train ride, which we are looking forward to – can’t wait to see the countryside of Austria, Hungry, Slovenia and Croatia.
Vienna is a beautiful city. The old part of the city was built around the palace. The Hapsburgs ruled this part of the world and much of Europe for centuries. The center of the city was developed in a circular pattern around the palace, surrounded in the past by a wall to protect the city. Today this is called the Ringstrasse and all of the major sites are within this area. We could easily walk to all the sights and many areas were traffic free.
We have learned much about the Emperor Franz Joseph and his beautiful but unhappy wife, Sisi, short for Elizabeth. Her life mirrors Princess Di’s in some ways. She was ahead of her time in that she exercised daily to maintain her 100 pound figure and 20 inch waist – and she was 5’8” tall! Their life was as interesting as it was tragic. We really enjoyed touring the palace, the Royal treasury and getting a small glimpse of Royal life in the 1800’s.
Last night, we bought standing room tickets for the Opera and saw the first act of “The Magic Flute”. The Opera House is one of the most famous in the world and quite lovely, although part of it was damaged during WWII and was rebuilt but not to the original grandeur it once was. You could see the contrast between the section that was not damaged and the newer portion. Having seen the Opera House in Budapest, built a little after Vienna’s and in the same style, we could see the difference. We all enjoyed the experience and felt very cultured!
We have been able to see first hand some of the destruction and hardship from WWII and the Communist reign. Hungry, Poland and the Czech Republic are just now refurbishing buildings, knocking down the cement block housing from the Soviet area and rebuilding parts of their cities. It has been very interesting and enlightening to witness. One of our central meeting spots was the monument Against War and Fascism, very moving.
Ron and Bev spent one afternoon at the Albertina Museum at the traveling Impressionist Exhibit. Very good.
One evening we took the tram to the end, into the Vienna Woods, for dinner in a Wine Garden called in the town of Nussdorf and had a very good and inexpensive meal. New wine was served in carafes-quite good. Certainly off the beaten tourist track and a favorite with the locals. Franz Joseph liked the winemakers-there are still 1700 acres of vineyards in Vienna-and gave them a tax holiday for 6 weeks each year to sell their new wine. Hence, they built wine gardens and added food.

One afternoon we visited the Kunsthistorisches Museum, the art collection of the Hapsburgs in a grand building, built as a museum in 1888. We did a Rick Steves super tour-Titian, Raphaels, Caravaggio, Velazquez and Bruegles, Rubens and Durer to drop a few names. We had coffee and sweets in the delightful Café and marveled at the variety of different colored marble used to construct the building. That morning we had toured the Hofburg Palace’s Treasury-a huge collection of jewels, crowns and mostly Catholic alter pieces.

The Lipizzaner horses were on view in their stables as we walked near the Hofburg Palace. We also saw the St. Stephen’s Cathedral.

Vienna is an elegant city. The Opera was a collection of the most sophisticated, well dressed and cultured people imaginable. Weather has been perfect. One night we got caught in a downpour on the way home from dinner but we retrieved umbrellas and raincoats from backpacks and enjoyed the excitement. Food has been good. We are enjoying wine. Coffee and dessert are terrific. We tried the famous chocolate torte at the Sacher Hotel and were underwhelmed. One again, a plug for traveling with Rick Steves. With his tips it is affordable to travel in Europe for a month, saving on hotels, restaurants, transportation and feeling comfortable and close to the country. We have perfected packing to a science. We all have a rolling bag and carry on bags. Laundry is easy to do in the hotel room. We also drop off a bag of laundry and pick it up the same day, washed and folded.

We have two days in Split, Croatia, before we pick up the boat for our sail to Dubrovnik. It will be a change of pace from the urban tourism we have been enjoying.

The Crew