Krakow

We climbed aboard the night train to Krakow, pulling out of Prague at 9:10 sharp. Our conductor was a hoot, officious but friendly, and we pulled into Krakow at 6:30 AM on the dot after gently rocking and clacking through the Czeck and Polish countryside while having sweet dreams of beer and goulash and things to come.
Our first impression of Poland, while trudging the downtown streets of Krakow on Saturday morning, fit every stereotype we had---old and dirty steets, dour people, soviet style archictecture, and a general dreariness that was reinforced by the overcast skies. Things picked up after a cheerful and extremely helpful hotel manager, and wonderful breakfast at a first class restaurant that cost us about 80 zloti ($26 US) for the four of us.
We headed out by city bus to the Wieliczka (vee-LEECH-kah) Salt Mine, a unique man made feature that has been producing salt since the 11th century. The tour takes you hundreds of feet into the earth where you are guided through about 2% of the 200 miles of shafts and chambers. It was interesting, but the tour was too long and a little corny. Diane's claustrophobia was at a high pitch, ending with a crammed ascent to the top in a rattley miner's evevator. I think this is when she began to appreciate the virtues of the exquisite local vodkas (wodka to our Polish friends).
The next morning Ron, Bev and Ken traveled by private car to Auschwitz-Birkenau. Diane understandably chose not to come along, aware that the emotional intensity would be substantial. She was, of course, correct in her assumption, and we returned with an experience and memories we'll never forget. Traveling for an hour across the Polish countryside stirs the memories of everything you've read about the irony of the bucolic landscape and the unimagininable horrors that awaited the million plus unsuspecting arrivals at the camps, mostly Jews, who were murdered by the Nazis from 1941-1945. The several hour tour is conducted by experienced guides who are somber, respectful, and matter of fact. There is no entertainment, no hyperbole, no attempt to persuade. They are allowing history to present its own case through observation of the camps themselves, along with photographs, artifacts, factual commentary, and the personal experience of being present in the very place where these events occurred. Even though its impossible to fully wrap your mind around the reality of this unspeakable, and recent, historical event, you leave with profound and unsettled emotions that will be carried permantly. It was an honor to have this experience.
We headed back to Krakow, freaked out by our driver who was intent on passing every car on the busy two lane road, and hooked up with Diane who had a relaxing day despite a troublesome eye infection. We had a beer on the massive plaza of the Old Town, a vibrant and very busy place full of eating, drinking, entertainment, horses and carriages, and beautiful people. We ate at a terrific restaurant (Polish-Italian fusion) and finished with dessert on the plaza. By this time we are in love with Poland. The people are polite and friendly, the town is fun, safe and full of interesting things to see and do, and it is cheap (not inexpensive), cheap! Tomorrow we will continue our sightseeing before boarding the night train to Budapest (sounds like a bad movie).
Do widzenia
Ron, Bev, Ken, Diane